Why did the CEO of Audemars Piguet send his staff for military training?
How many CEOs practise you know send their staff to train nether onetime United states of america Navy SEALs? Thankfully, Francois-Henry Bennahmias did, before Audemars Piguet'due south new Code eleven.59 collection was unveiled at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in January.
In preparation for its launch, the straight-talking CEO known for his dynamic and bold management way sent Audemars Piguet personnel to Oman where they were subjected to gruelling concrete exercises in 45°C estrus.
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"They were doing push-ups and sit down-ups and once they were out of breath, the ex-SEALs would yell questions near Code 11.59 close to their face to meet how would they would maintain their composure. If they made a mistake, they had to get back to push-ups," said Bennahmias, himself not an ex-military human, only who professes to be "very organised".
It appears the one-time pro golfer may have had a foreboding of the tempest in store the moment the world laid eyes on the then-new drove.
"When nosotros opened the first twenty-four hours of SIHH, we got bombarded with negative things on social media," he recalled. "I wasn't surprised that we got bad comments; I was surprised at how aggressive people were – but we were ready for information technology."
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The brand was swiftly and brutally vilified online, with calls for the 55-twelvemonth-onetime CEO to even be removed from his postal service. Bloomberg, meanwhile, likened the new collection to "Chanel opening a pop-up store in a discount supermarket".
Why so much hate?
For starters, critics defendant of the brand of being unimaginative.
At a glance, Code eleven.59 sits in a (mostly) round instance, in dissimilarity to the signature profile of an octagonal bezel on the Majestic Oak, which, at the time of its launch in 1972, helped catapult Audemars Piguet into the pantheon of mod watchmaking, thus cementing its cult favourite status since.
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Lawmaking eleven.59, however, does not quite embody the aforementioned kind of disruptive pattern DNA associated with a celebrated iconoclast.
To the untrained middle, it does feel a trivial… safety. And therefore somewhat ironic given that "Code" is an acronym said to evoke the brand's mission to Challenge (the limits of craftsmanship) Own (its roots and legacy), Dare (to follow firm convictions) and Evolve (to never stand still).
That said, one could also consider the decision to deviate from the expected a brave hazard aligned with the abovementioned ethos.
To pacify brand loyalists, perhaps, the octagon makes a cameo – sandwiched in the center of the case instead; a subtle inclusion that creates a more circuitous profile while offer the manufacture the opportunity to showcase its infrequent mastery of craftsmanship with a mix of brushed and polished finishes.
"People ask why we accept to include something related to the Regal Oak. The answer is because you lot cannot achieve dissimilar types of finishes on a circle. You lot need angles and the angles permit us to prove the depth and quality of our finishes. We didn't play it piece of cake," Bennahmias insisted.
Code 11.59 has been touted as i of the nigh important launches in the history of Audemars Piguet, not to the lowest degree of which to demonstrate that the visitor stands for more than than only the Majestic Oak.
And it has, thirteen times over, with equally many references in its debut collection. These include half-dozen complications: appointment and time; chronograph; perpetual agenda; open-work and flight tourbillons; and supersonnerie minute repeater.
To further showcase its savoir-faire and technical prowess, the 144-yr-old manufacture has also created three new cocky-winding calibres but for this collection: Calibre 4302 with engagement function; Calibre 4401 flyback chronograph with 70 hours of power reserve; and Calibre 2950, the company's first automatic move to incorporate a flying tourbillon and central rotor.
According to Bennahmias, just ii,000 pieces of Lawmaking 11.59 (out of the brand's full almanac production capped at 40,000 for the past 5 years) volition be produced for 2019, and that figure will double in 2020.
"A lot of people came at u.s.a. hard initially, and a lot of people defended u.s.a. difficult. In the end, the market place is the judge," he said.
Putting things into perspective, he added: "If social media existed in 1972 when nosotros launched the Imperial Oak, practiced luck. People would have destroyed united states of america at that fourth dimension."
"If social media existed in 1972 when we launched the Royal Oak, good luck. People would have destroyed u.s. at that time." – Francois Bennahmias
Non YOUR TYPICAL CEO
Bennahmias is not your typical CEO. He has worked for Audemars Piguet for 25 years, the last vii of which spent in the CEO seat. And his quick wit and trademark sense of sense of humor, bordering on the sardonic, is on display for much of the interview.
"People expect the CEO of Audemars Piguet to be older or non as funny… I say, come on, life is about being celebrated," he offered, in a rich baritone.
Y'all won't find him in the traditional suit-and-tie uniformed look of most CEOs of luxury brands, either. Rather, a leather jacket and matching sneakers carrying a Berluti label is more his style.
It's a less formal look, which, Bennahmias believes, reflects the evolving demographic of today's luxury client.
"We see a lot of immature people – men and women – coming to the luxury world. We see that the codes of luxury are completely changing; you don't always accept to wear a three-piece suit and be and then perfect to host an event. It'due south more about how you lot're gonna create an experience and make it fun for the customer," he said.
"Nosotros come across a lot of young people – men and women – coming to the luxury world. We see that the codes of luxury are completely irresolute; you don't always have to wear a iii-piece suit and exist so perfect to host an issue." – Francois Bennahmias
Audemars Piguet, he says, is a very serious brand that doesn't take itself and then seriously.
"When you attain a level of wealth that allows you lot entry into this world, you're allowed to have fun. Just because it's luxury doesn't mean it has to exist ostentatious or pretentious."
This philosophy appears to exist both on-point and personified in Lawmaking 11.59, as Bennahmias says the product has also been alluring a new and younger clientele to the brand.
"Nearly 50 per cent of the new customers we're getting are of an average age betwixt 25 and 35 years old," he observed.
Some other unexpected upside from the development of Lawmaking 11.59? The military-style preparations served to improved business operations all circular.
"It'southward challenging the way we've been running the business, and everything we've done for 11.59 is teaching us lessons about how to do our job better for the Royal Oak, the Millenary, the Royal Oak Offshore collections. It brings boosted experience and cognition that we didn't have earlier," he explained.
While Audemars Piguet volition exist noticeably missed at SIHH next yr equally the brand is pulling out for strategic reasons, it does intend to concord its own private events for retailers and customers in conjunction with the opening of its highly-anticipated museum next April.
We can't help but wonder if Bennahmias will exist redeploying those ex-Navy SEALs for another bout of duty before the night at the museum.
"When you lot reach a level of wealth that allows you entry into this earth, you're allowed to have fun. Just considering information technology's luxury doesn't hateful it has to be ostentatious or pretentious." – Francois Bennahmias
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Source: https://cnalifestyle.channelnewsasia.com/people/audemars-piguet-ceo-francois-bennahmias-245786
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